Mounting guide · floating nightstand
Mounting guide · floating nightstand
For owners
Two holes. One level line. No stud finder, no guesswork. Take it step by step and the whole thing is done in under an hour.
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Wall mounting
Your nightstand hangs on an interlocking wood cleat. Two SnapToggle anchors lock behind the drywall, and the load runs straight down into the wall.
You do not need to find a stud. The anchors hold in drywall on their own, and they are already in the box.
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Keep scrolling — the six steps are below.
Method A — recommended
any drywall · no studs · anchors included
you bring: a drill with a Ø 1/2 in bit, and a screwdriver
Set your height first: the top surface sits level with the top of your mattress, or an inch or two above. Tape the template at that line, rest the mini level on it, and adjust until the bubble centers.
fig. 01 — mounting height
There is no fixed number here. Bed heights vary, so yours is the one that counts.
Mark through the template, straight onto the wall — the spacing is already built in, you never measure it yourself. Then drill one hole on each mark. Use the 1/2 in bit. It looks far too big for the job; it isn't. The anchor has to fold up and pass through the hole, so it needs that width.
fig. 02 — the template
This is the step everything else inherits. Take the extra minute here and the rest lines up on its own.
First the anchors, on their own. The anchor is not a screw — it is a metal channel on two plastic straps. Fold the channel flat, push it through the hole, then pull the straps toward you so it opens up behind the drywall. Slide the plastic cap along the straps until it presses against the wall, then snap the straps off level with the surface. Repeat in the second hole. Nothing is screwed in yet.
Then the cleat. Hold the wall cleat over the two anchors, lining its holes up with them, and drive one bolt through the cleat into each anchor. Tighten until snug. Check the bubble one last time before you stop.
fig. 03 — SnapToggle, in section
The metal channel spreads the load across the back of the drywall. That is why no stud is needed.
Lower it straight down onto the cleat until it seats with a solid stop. Check the level one last time.
fig. 04 — the hang
The two angled faces mirror each other. As the piece settles, its own weight pulls it in against the wall instead of pushing it off.
One screw through the anti-tip bracket into the wall. Then press down on a front corner — nothing should move.
fig. 05 — the anti-tip bracket
The bracket's upper arm is already fixed to the underside of the top panel during assembly. This is the last screw of the job.
Other walls
Method A covers nearly every bedroom wall. These two exist for the exceptions — nothing here changes the cleat, the height, or the level line.
The piece is narrower than standard 16-inch stud spacing by design, so at most one of the two holes can land on a stud. If one does, use it: drill a pilot hole and drive the included wood screw there, with a SnapToggle in the other hole as usual. Same cleat, same level line — one anchor swapped for wood.
pilot bit Ø 7/64 in · #8 wood screw ×1 · SnapToggle ×1
Masonry takes Tapcon screws — not included — driven into Ø 5/32 in pilot holes. The height, the cleat and the level line do not change. The full masonry sequence is in the PDF guide.
Questions owners actually ask